The Wraith Engine might be an intimidating menace on the tabletop, but with this guide, it will be far less troublesome to get ready for your games!
Clean all the parts thoroughly. Metal parts can be cleaned as you would prepare any other metal figure. Be sure to examine the arms carefully, especially the cloth on the arms, to ensure that any flash has been removed.
The red parts as shown in the photo need to be removed or cleaned up. It might be helpful to fit the parts together as you are cleaning them to make sure that they fit together well. The attachment points along the main body may have excess resin from the casting process preventing a solid connection. While you are cleaning the parts, note the presence of any air bubbles that need to be filled later.
Keep in mind that resin dust can be toxic, so take the proper precautions in reducing the amount of resin dust you create and wear a mask, preferably an N-95 respirator if you are sanding the resin.
The ribs and cables on the side torso parts in particular are places where flash likes to form, so a little extra attention now will save any annoyances later when you discover flash missed in the initial cleaning. The red areas highlight the remains of pour vents from the casting process. They most likely will not be seen on the finished model, but you may want to smooth them out while you are cleaning the parts. As they are on the inside of a curved part, they can be somewhat tricky to clean. A rotary tool with a rounded or tapered grinding bit (be careful of the resin dust!) or a knife with a rounded, scalpel-style blade will make quick work of those areas.
Once you have the main parts of the body cleaned, assemble the torso and the two tail sections. The torso sides connect to the central body and the upper tail section, so having one solid piece to fit them to will be far easier to manipulate than three parts that haven’t been assembled yet.
The pipes on the torso sides need to meet up with the socket on the first vent. If you need to readjust the pipe, you can heat it with a hair dryer to soften the resin. It can then be readjusted to fit as shown in the photo.
Any air bubbles that you found can be filled in with Formula P3 Modeling Putty. Once the putty has fully cured, you can go back and lightly sand the puttied area to ensure there are no blemishes and the surface is smooth.
While the torso is assembled, it is a good time to fill any gaps that might be between the torso and tail sections. The connection point between the torso and upper tail will be mostly covered by the torso sides, so you could skip filling gaps in that area. The connection between the two tail sections is a bit more exposed, but if you take your time and follow the shapes of the pipes, you can eliminate any gaps easily.
Now that the body is starting to take shape, you might be thinking about how you want your model to be posed. The arms have ball joints at the shoulders and wrists, which allow a large amount of freedom for posing. To help with painting and the strength of the joint between the arms and torso, it may be useful to pin the arms.
An easy way to figure out where to drill the arms is to carefully drill holes in the arm sockets that meet in the middle. They should meet in such a way that you can use some brass rod to go in one side and come out on the other side. Pose the arm as you would like it to be on your finished model, and put the rod through the opposite side. Press the rod against the arm and it should leave a mark, which is then used to locate where you drill. An end that has been clipped off usually has a bit of an ‘edge’ to it that will leave a more prominent mark than an uncut piece.
Now that all the parts have been cleaned and some have been assembled, it is tempting to complete the model. With the way the chest area is surrounded by the ribs, it will be far easier to paint the model in parts, and then assemble it once the interior sections have been painted. To keep the connection areas free from primer and paint, use poster putty or masking tape.