Start by examining the contents. Lay out the parts and clean up the flash and mold lines. Cleaning the metal parts is easily done with clippers, a hobby knife, and a file set. Use the clippers to remove large pieces of flash and the knife and files to smooth out the mold lines.
The resin parts also have flash that needs to be removed. This excess resin is from the sprue used to hold the part in place inside the silicone mold. Several parts on the Trollkin War Wagon have nubs or extra material from the casting process (highlighted red in the photo). You can easily remove those with clippers. Once the pieces are trimmed use a hobby knife or wet sanding to smooth the area.
It is important to note that resin dust can be toxic if inhaled, so be sure to wear a dust mask when working with resin parts. An N-95 respirator is best. Using a hobby knife to scrape the mold lines creates less dust than sanding or filing, so it is the recommended method. There are times when sanding is necessary, however, and for this we recommend a wet sanding technique. Wet sanding is done with sandpaper dipped in water. The water helps trap the resin dust so that it does not release into the air. Sandpaper intended for wet sanding has a backing of plastic rather than paper, which would deteriorate in water. When you are finished cleaning the resin parts, wash them with soap and water to remove any excess resin dust and to ensure there is no mold release agent remaining on the part, which might prevent paint from adhering to the model.
Once you have cleaned the mold lines and removed the flash from the parts, move on to the assembly, which is best done as a series of sub-assemblies. If the model is fully assembled before you paint it, you will find it far harder to paint the details on the interior.
First, assemble the driver, gunner, scattergunner, and buffalo. These parts can be mounted on spare bases to be painted separately. This is a good time to attach the loose arm to the loader pyg.
Next, glue the Pounder onto the pedestal with Formula P3 Superglue and add the shield. Also glue the loader Pyg to his platform.
Once you are confident the glue has set on the Pounder assembly, add the gunner to the back. Then attach the loader to the side.
Assemble the chassis by gluing on the axle ends and the yoke. You can attach the wheels at this time, or you might find them easier to paint loose. Note the areas that you cleaned previously; those are good spots to attach to the base, as they are relatively flat. Also keep in mind that the wheels have different textures on each side. Be careful to position them to match the way you want them to look.
Assemble the crew compartment beginning with the front armor, then attach the side plate. Aligning the plates in this order is easier than starting with the side plate and then trying to make the front piece work. The seam between the front and side plates might need a bit of Formula P3 Putty to fill the gap.
Paint the remaining pieces before completing the model assembly. It is also a good idea to attach the driver, scattergunner, shell pyg, and loose shells before attaching the Pounder. Properly positioning these pieces can be quite difficult once the Pounder is in place.
Once you are satisfied with the positions of the crew and the Pounder, you are ready to field your Trollkin War Wagon!