The Arcantrik Force Generator is quite a unique-looking battle engine. There are a few details to take note of, but assembling this large resin kit is not much different from a metal or plastic kit.
Start by examining the contents. Lay out the parts and clean the flash and mold lines. The Arcantrik Force Generator is mainly resin, but has metal crew and two small metal legs. Cleaning the metal parts is easily done with clippers, a hobby knife and file set. Use the clippers to remove large pieces of flash, and the knife and files to smooth out the mold lines.
Similar to metal parts, the resin has flash that will need to be removed. This excess resin is the remains of the plastic sprue used to hold the part in place inside the silicone mold. These areas are highlighted in red in the photo, and are easily removed with clippers.
On the leg’s attachment point, you will find what appears to be a rectangular piece of flash. This is, in fact, the attachment plug. It may need to be trimmed down a little, but do not remove it.
It is important to note that resin dust can be toxic if inhaled, so be sure to wear a dust mask when working with resin parts. An N-95 respirator is best. Using a hobby knife to scrape the mold lines creates less dust than sanding or filing, so it is the recommended method, but there will be times when sanding is necessary and for this we recommend a wet sanding technique. Wet sanding is done with sandpaper dipped in water. The water helps trap the resin dust preventing the particulates from releasing into the air. Be sure to use sandpaper intended for wet sanding. It will have a plastic backing rather than paper, which would deteriorate in water. When the cleaning of the resin parts is finished, wash them with soap and water to remove any excess resin dust and to ensure that there is no mold release agent remaining on the part. The mold release can sometimes leave a greasy residue that may repel paint.
If there are any small air bubbles in the casting, they can easily be filled with Formula P3 Modeling Putty.
The majority of flash on the carapace will be found on the underside of the front. Clean this area thoroughly to ensure a proper fit. You’ll feel the parts “pop” into place. There is a notch in the bottom of the carapace that will fit around the circular protrusion of the body, and on the top, the wheel should insert deep enough that the carapace covers the rough edge.
Begin the assembly by super gluing the long legs in place and ensuring their feet sit level on the base. The small metal legs and long resin legs are universal, so there’s no need to figure out which one fits on the left side or right.
Dry-fit the carapace in place, and super glue the small metal legs into their sockets. It is recommended to keep the carapace separate so you can easily paint the detail on the interior areas of the model.
Assemble the crew as you would any other model. You may wish to attach them to spare bases for ease of painting.
Once the painting is complete, drill a small hole in the base to accommodate the pegs on the crew’s feet. The 1.90mm Formula P3 Pinning Expansion’s drill bit is the best size to use.
There is enough room to position the crew around the machine wherever you prefer.