Insider 4-22-13


This model is huge! It’s the largest model I’ve painted, and it has the highest part-count of any model I’ve put together. In assembling and painting the studio Mammoth, I’ve gleaned some valuable insights that will help you assemble your own Mammoth for easier painting.

Here’s what you’ll need.
• Double-sided permanent-hold foam mounting tape
• Fine-grade sandpaper
• Formula P3 File Set
• Formula P3 Hobby Knife
• Formula P3 Modeling Drill & Pinning Set
• Formula P3 Super Glue
• Super Glue Accelerator
• Several wooden handles to affix parts to and a large handle for the full sculpt

Including the base, the Mammoth is made up of 64 separate parts. To start, file and sand off all the flash and mold lines.

Put as many large resin pieces together as possible. The metal bits will be attached later. Glue the torso, tail, head, and legs together. Glue the double-cannon to the top of Mammoth’s houdah, but leave the two side-cannons off for now. Affix the three-tassel piece to the stomach plate and the helmet-blade right above the nose. Glue the Mammoth to its base and set it aside.

Next, glue the armor plates to the arms. The blade gauntlets are affixed to the larger arms, with the blades pointing outward. The smaller plates are gauntlets for the small arms. Glue these on with the scalloped detail facing toward the hands and then set the arms aside.

Glue the four cannon magazines to the back of the cannon plate. Now most of the resin parts should be glued together.

Next, attach some of the smaller bits. Separate the two flat, hooked back plates from their sprue and find the small bumps on their longest sides, then turn the Mammoth around and find the matching sockets on its uppermost back plate. Affix these back plates to create the support structure for the houdah. Note that on my model these parts are resin pieces and are the same color as the torso piece—don’t let the photo confuse you.

Now find the two metal bits that comprise a pair of disks lashed together with rope. Dry fit these onto the sides of the houdah to make sure they have the correct facing, then glue them in place. They should fit flush against the socket.

A little further down the Mammoth’s side, just above its belt buckles, there is another socket. Attach two of the four metal ring parts here and glue the remaining two into the side sockets and at the back of Mammoth’s foot.

There are eight spikes included in the Mammoth box, four of which have rims around the bases. Fit those into the sockets in the top of the cannons. The four rimless spikes need to be attached to the large arm gauntlets.

Using brass rods, pin the trigger-pulls and attach them to a wooden handle.

Glue the two straight rope pieces to the cannon magazine plate. There is a socket about halfway up on either side. Match the peg on the rope to that socket. Glue the assembled plate to the back of the houdah.

Drill a hole in the back of the side cannon tabs and pin them to a wooden handle.

Pin all four tusks to a wooden handle.

Glue all the tassels around the top of another wooden handle. Use just enough glue to tack them to the handle.

Using the foam mounting tape, lay down a couple strips on top of one of your handles and press the shoulder plates into them.

Now it’s time to finally prime and paint the Mammoth! You will get to a certain point where you will have to finish assembling the mini and finish it off as a whole. Paint as much of the Mammoth’s body as you can before attaching everything else. Gluing the Mammoth completely together at the beginning can make it difficult to reach areas under its head, tummy, and between his arms and body.

I hope this advice helps! Keep the brushes wet and the paint thinned!